Langkawi, Malaysia 8/2-7/2006

The minibus is waiting for me when I arrive back at the hotel in Krabi from my search for coffee and food.  Janeen is already on the bus and anxiously awaiting my return.  We're off early this morning.  The driver of the minibus delivers an envelope to me with money in it, strange????  I fall asleep on the minibus.  We stop around 10 a.m. and I get coffee finally, samosas and a strange bag of unidentifiable chips.  We are then driven to a minibus station where a tall man tells Janeen she'll have to pay for her over-sized luggage.  Some how that does not happen.  We don't get on the leaving bus but they fit our cases in another minibus on the back seat and we're off for the ferry to Langkawi.  Making several stops dropping various passengers off, we are delivered to the pier still in Thailand, actually Satun and have to pay an additional 25b each added to the 490b returned to us in the envelope which had been given to us by the driver of the first minibus leaving Krabi.  It was very strange but also due to the language barrier I'm sure. The whole action would indicate their honesty.  Now we have had lunch at the Satun ferry station and are waiting for the ferry to Langkawi.  The ride over on the ferry reminded me a bit of the San Juan Islands of Washington State.  We go up on top to enjoy the ride and the views.  There are huge brown box jelly fish in the sea, sort of boxy-looking and mushroom shaped designs on their bodies with tentacles hanging off their undersides.  We arrive in Langkawi's ferry terminal much like an airport or train station.  It is a free-port so there are many shops.  We have foolishly not changed our money to Malaysian ringgits from Thai bahts so we cannot buy a thing.  The money changer is closed and there is not an ATM machine.  A couple taxi drivers approach us and we go with one to change money, buy wine and he takes us to Pantai Denang, a nearby town on the beach where we get a room easily at AB Motel for 80rm or $22.25 split between us.  We could have taken a room across the street for 50rm but our little bungalow is 4 back from the beach and very nice.  The exchange here is 3.59RM = $1.  The beach is huge and very nice powder white sand like the Gulf beaches.  The water is warm with small waves but not very clear water like Phi Phi.  I go for a swim at sunset and it is nice.  We walk down the beach for dinner.  A BBQ choice of prawns, chicken wings, fish and I have the prawns, salad and a baked potato for $5.30.  Our table is right on the beach and I have already drank half of the bottle of wine.  Returning to our bungalow there is a girl sitting on the first bungalow and I speak to her and join her with my bottle of wine.  Her name is Teri and she's a Canadian living and working in Seoul, Korea teaching English.  She was raised in Thunder Bay, Ontario and she tells me of her 5 year old brother Jacob drowning in a lake while the family was camping.  She has been fearful of swimming ever since.  She is leery of swimming here and I said I would go with her tomorrow.  Soon Ash joins us, an Arab Muslim.  Later a Malaysian guy joins us and I get my second bottle of wine.  He brings 3 packs of Bingo cigs.  I have been smoking Teri's Marlboro lights.  We have a very fun night.  Walk down the beach, lay on the beach and watch the stars, talk with each other of our lives and drift back toTeri's porch.  Finally go to the room about 2 or 3 a.m. and to sleep.  I'm up late and Janeen is still sleeping.  I tell her I'm walking down the beach to find breakfast.   I bump into Teri and Ash.  He has spent the night with her and they are going to breakfast and she invites me to join them.  We walk to the end, find nothing, cut thru this beautiful hotel with a lovely pool and out to the street.  Find a place and I get a fruit plate, iced coffee and chicken, fish and a little rice and beef dish from the buffet  It wasn't very good food but Ash pays for all of us.  We walk back on the street side and I spot Janeen buying an ankle bracelet.  Introduce her to Ash and Teri.  Now on  to the beach, Teri in the middle and she talks to me alot.  Ash finally leaves and she tells me he's gotten so possessive, wanting to travel with her, saying he loves her and freaking her out! He finally gets it and leaves and I don't think she sees him again.  I'm hungry a bit and Teri tells me about the Babylon down the beach where the orange umbrellas are.  I walk down and sit in this cute little beach cafe and get a coke and potato wedges for $2.80.  Back to the beach to read.  Teri fell asleep and burned herself.  We clean up and walk down to Babylon again for cocktails.  I have a margarita and then order 2 more doubles because their margaritas are half a small highball glass.  We order dinner as they are doing a BBQ.  They have steak, lamb, chicken satay, fish and prawns.  I order the lamb and a small piece of fish.  The lamb is very good all costing me $27.60, including my margaritas, so I've spent more money here than usual!  We walk back the beach to the room feeling no pain and to bed.  Up late at 8:17 a.m.  We have booked a boat trip which leaves at 9:30 and I want to have breakfast.  I have just finished brushing my teeth and someone knocks on the door.  Janeen is still sleeping.  It's the boat guy, we are on Thai time and it's after 9:30 a.m. here.  We quickly throw our stuff together and get in the van meeting Jay from Vancouver.  He's a Korean who moved to the States 10 years ago from Seoul with his family.  His father was interested in the boys' education and moved the family to Canada.  He's a very nice guy about 23.  I got a couple of cokes in lieu of coffee this morning.  The boat ride is nice thru the islands.  There are 99 islands in this archipelago where Langkawi is the largest.  The first island is Palau Dayang Bunting where there is a fresh water lake and a myth along with it.  We get off the boat from a long pier, walk onto the island and there are monkeys everywhere begging.  Lots of babies too.  There is a big sign telling the name of the lake and the legend.  There was a Goddess who married a common man and became pregnant with a child.  She lost the child believing it was because she married and loved a common man.  She then swam in the lake stating that every woman or maiden that swam in the lake would conceive and deliver.  It was a magical story of hope.  We have met Jay from Vancouver and invite him to go with us in the paddleboat Janeen wanted to rent.  She sits in the middle and Jay and I paddle.  It's boring but the lake is pretty.  Back in to the dock where we rented the paddleboat and I swim in the fresh water lake. The tour is called Island Hopping trip.  Jay and Janeen have started back while I swim.  Walking back I notice the sound of the jungle and also observe the abundance of ferns growing everywhere.  It is a very lush island, they all are.  I also see one of the smaller monkeys sitting on the garbage can with a soda can ripping it open with his teeth.  They have learned quickly where treats come from and from the humans!  Next stop is to watch the eagles this area is famous for.  The Pulau Singa Eagle spotting bay.  There are lots of these eagles in the mangroves and dipping down to get food the boat people have put into the water.  We watch the eagles for a bit and then head for Pulau Beras Basah or Beras Basah Island where there is a beautiful beach.  Swim here and walk the beach looking for shells.  Talk to a British couple that tell us it's snowing in Johannesburg.  UGG, so we ask Nick to change our leaving date again.  People are para sailing from here.  It was also comical because the British woman had just opened a bag of crisps and the monkey stole the bag from her and was eating her crisps sitting next to her on her blanket.  They are very brazen.  We head back to Langkawi and the driver takes us back to AB Motel.  We haven't eaten and are starving.  We go to Debbie's Irish Cafe for burgers, chips and beer which is great.  A fun place with very entertaining waiters.  Back to AB and the beach where I find Teri.  We go kayaking across to the island you can see from our beach.  It was great fun.  Walk the beach for shells and find a nice sand dollar for my shell table at home on the lanai.  Did see a small jelly out there and Teri confesses she was a bit nervous.  She did well and I loved it.  I'm buying a kayak as soon as I can when I get home and settled again.  I STILL DON'T HAVE ONE!!!  Pick up my laundry after kayaking.  Teri and I go down to the Babylon again for a cocktail and then go to Champor Champor (Mix Mix in Malay) for dinner and beers.  Champor is very cool with a lovely garden, dining room and bar.  Uma, a black Indian-looking Malaysian originally from India or Pakistan and Theo, a big white guy from Amsterdam own the place, thus the name "mix, mix".  We hear the music coming from Debi's and decide to head over there.  We actually had split 2 appetizers as I was only interested in a lite meal.  At Debi's it's a riot.  Those same entertaining waiters have gone crazy.  They drag you in and we're dancing.  Find us a table and bring us beers.  Teri and I hang out here and enjoy the activities.  Soon some Muslim guys come in and sit at our table.  Malaysia is mostly Muslim.  We introduce and chat.  They slowly leave and we close the bar talking with Menace (Dennis) from Australia who lives in Malay now.  A strange guy.  Back to AB to end a great day and evening.  I'm having so much fun with Teri.  I'm up late, 11:15 a.m. after sleeping well.  I've slept in and I owe Teri RM100.  She is loaned me money.  Actually I borrowed RM100 from Janeen and had to pay her back as she didn't want to borrow from Teri.  Janeen is so misleading when lending me money.  She'll say she has too much of whatever countries currency and she can loan me then she'll spend it and be short.  She drives me nuts.  It seems to be a way of life now!  I panic because Teri was to leave for the Cameron Highlands today.  I go knock on her door and she doesn't answer.  Her clothes are still on the porch so I think she's staying.  I knock a second check and as I'm leaving she comes to the door with soap still on her.  She's in the shower and staying so I have some time.  Janeen and I get a taxi and go out to the airport after I spend almost 2 hours on line trying to buy these Air Asia flight tickets to Kuala Lumpur. Teri has said all along that we should go to the airport to book the flight, new one on me!  We are able to get the flight and decide on Monday at 11:30 a.m., costs us RM279.98 or $76.08 for both of us, $38.04 each one way, not bad.  She still owes me money because this flight I charged was more than this one that she has charged to her account.  We get money for the ATM and go back to AB to get Teri and then go for a late breakfast.  We go to the Red Tomato run by a French woman and her Malay husband.  He is quite handsome and they have a boy about 6 or so. I get a few coffees, their special omelet and hash browns.  It's raining so we stay.  She has made a chocolate banana torte and there are 2 pieces left.  Janeen and I get them and a picture is uploaded to the blog that you can look at if you like.  They are heaven.  We leave to go shopping in the rain.  I buy a cute bathing suit and a short skirt sarong for $13 and some wooden carved cats for Sage & Sienna.  I hope I don't break the tails in travel.  The island is full of cats with strange shaped and strange length tails.  We think it is from in-breeding.  These carved cats have long straight up in the air tails and are very cute. I get a cute fishbone cap with Langkawi on it for Mark.  I buy a magnet with the Malaysia logo and map for the fridge, a sarong buckle, and a hand drawn card with envelop.  Walk by a hair color salon and ask him his hours for tomorrow to get my hair colored.  He's open tomorrow at noon.  I'll check back then.  Back to the room to get cleaned up and go out with Teri and Janeen.  We go to Champor Champor again but it's raining so we can't sit in the garden area as Teri and I had done.  They are busy tonight.  Janeen and I both order the pepper steak and it is fabulous.  Comes with deep fried coated or crusted potatoes and small green veggies that look like small romaine heads and taste like brussel sprouts.  The steak is only RM 25 ($7) but I drink wine which proves to be very good and spend $25.  Janeen goes back to the room and Teri and I go to the bar.  Teri had ordered Uma's Indian curry that she said was awesome.  We hang out at the bar talking to Theo and lots of other British people on tour with some show.  There is this Brit that was so arrogant, a guy.  He really aggravated me so I went to talk with a French couple who were very nice.  We had a ball and the wine was awesome.  I can't even remember paying Theo so my total here is a guess????  We stumble back to the AB and "hit the hay"!  Up and go to breakfast again at the Red Tomato.  This time I get fried eggs that are terrible and potato wedges because they are out of their yummy homemade hash browns.  Also coffee and fruit plate.  Teri doesn't like watermelon so trade some of my pineapple for her watermelon.  The wedges are good but I don't eat the egg.  It's just too cooked.  I need to get my hair done and it's past noon now so leave the girls and go to the hair place.  Micheal can do it now but I tell him I'll be back at 5:30.  I want to go to the beach.  As I'm headed back to the beach, Teri and Janeen are heading to the hair place.  Teri ends up getting her hair streaked as it needed to be done again and Janeen gets her hair cut.  I'm at the beach wondering what has happened to them.  Janeen returns with her normal hair cut.  Teri still is there.  She comes back and it looks good. Time for me to go to the salon.  Micheal mixes up the color and it looks too bright to me, but I say nothing, trusting he knows what he is doing.  While my color is timing he cuts and Egyptian guys hair.  Very international day here at Micheal's salon.  Rinses my hair and it is bright clown red with a hint of burgundy!  the grey around my face is really lighter and brighter red.  He can tone that down and does.  I really should have had him do the whole head but was sick of being in the salon.  I really don't enjoy having my hair done.  I constantly feel confined.  I leave and bump into the girls at AB's water fridge where I wanted a bottle of water.  They are shocked at my hair color!  I think it is fun so we head for some food at Debi's.  Again it is fun there and they make over my hair and we take pics as we are all leaving tomorrow.  Teri to the Cameron Highlands and us to Tioman Island via Kuala Lumpur.  Have fish and chips, beer and coleslaw.  Back to AB, say our good nights.  Teri will knock on the door at 7:30 a.m.  She wakes me the next morning to say good bye.  I'm a bit sad.  I give her my email address but she does not give me hers, saying she will email me and I will have it then.  Sadly, I never hear from her again.  Eat my left overs for breaky.  Pack and check the Internet.  The taxi is here and we head for the airport.  The flight to Kuala Lumpur leaves at 11:30 and Janeen has put the cost on her card.  We are overweight and they charge me RM72 ($20), Janeen's is a little less.  I don't understand that.  She gets them to waive her case with her meds and that is the reason.  I get a coffee and snack while waiting at the airport.  We are now standing in line to board the plane when there is a gentlemen who comes out of smoking and passes me, I say "excuse me" and he says the same.  Soon he is back getting n line with us to board the plane and commenting on his cutting in on the line.  He talks and seems to be flirting with me.  He's German but lives here in Langkawi for almost 10 years.  Was in the shipping business and still is I guess.  He's heading for KL for the day on business.  He will catch the last plane back to Langkawi.  He sits across from me on the plane.  Helps Janeen with her second bag, taking it up front on the plane and storing it for her.  He talks to me almost all the way to KL.  He talks about his Indonesia wife, his sail boat, the Finn girls who sailed with him for 3 months, how he sold his boat and his wife loved the boat.  Talked about how these people are not too bright.  Said jokingly, things to me that I didn't think was particularly funny and he thought I didn't get it.  He was a good looking older guy with blue eyes.  Spoke that he was probably older than me, that he was 39 so I said your right I'm 38.  He laughed.  We land in KL and he helps Janeen with her bag getting it down and off the plane and then leaves to get a taxi and his business done........now we are in Khula Lumpur for the day.......Khula Lumpur next.......